As with most places in Southern France, I’d never heard of Saint Guilhem le Désert before living in Montpellier.
Saint Guilhem le Désert, a charming village situated within the Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Languedoc, is located 30 kilometers (19 miles) west of Montpellier. The village traces its origins back to the year 804. At that time, Guilhem, the Count of Toulouse and Duke of Aquitaine, founded the Abbey of Gellone.
Guilhem, which is “William” in the regional Occitan language, was also first cousin to Charlemagne, aka Charles the Great.
Sidebar – if your knowledge of Charlemagne stops at his name, you’re not alone (mine did, too). According to Encyclopedia.com, Charlemagne is famous for three main reasons.
He “founded the Holy Roman Empire, stimulated European economic and political life, and fostered the cultural revival known as the Carolingian Renaissance. In contrast to the general decline of western Europe from the 7th century on, the era of Charlemagne marks a significant revival and turning point.”
So, what does this mean for our fondateur of what is today a French village emblematic of ancient times? Well, before founding the Abbey of Gellone, Guilhem won significant military victories against the Saracens along the southern border on behalf of his cousin. However, after taking control of Barcelona in 803, he decided to radically shift gears and became a monk. Before establishing his own abbey, he was mentored by the founder of the Aniane Abbey, Saint-Benoît.
He also, crucially, received a relic in thanks for his service. Today, this relic is believed to be a piece of the True Cross of Jesus Christ from Charlemagne. This relic garnered intense interest in Guilhem’s abbey and ensured its relevant longevity. Additionally, the village became a stopping place for pilgrims making the journey to Santiago de Compostela or St. James Way.
Guilhem would become known as Saint Guilhem after the 10th century. His village acquired the ending “le-Désert” after his death due to its incredibly isolated location.
Today, the little village is cloaked in mystique and fantastic tales. In the summertime, tourists number in the thousands.
One such tale centers on the intriguingly named Pont du Diable (French for “Devil’s Bridge”)
As the story goes, Saint Guilhem was supervising repeatedly failed attempts to construct a bridge. One night, he went out and encountered the Devil in the process of destroying the bridge.
He offered the Devil a deal: If the Devil would construct the bridge himself such that it could never be destroyed, Guilhem would permit him to claim the soul of the first living being to encounter the bridge.
The Devil agreed and created the bridge. Guilhem was obliged to fulfill his end of the bargain, which he did – but only technically.
He sent a dog to the bridge where the Devil waited in eager anticipation. The Devil, infuriated by the deception, turned on his construction and attempted to destroy it.
But, having fulfilled his end of the bargain to create an indestructible bridge, even he could not destroy it.
Today, Pont de Diable serves as a gorgeous medieval backdrop to the Gorges de l’Hérault
The mouth of the gorge itself draws local teenagers, who gather on the boulders that line the shore to smoke, drink, and periodically hurl themselves into the water to cool down.
Canyoners, kayakers, paddleboarders, and people lounging in the sunshine find the area equally enjoyable.
At the entrance to the bridge, a rather melancholy sign blares a warning about leaping from the bridge into the water below. Imploring adolescents to resist the urges of their underdeveloped pre-frontal cortex, it lists the number of people who have leaped to their deaths within the past year.
From atop the bridge, you can see the mountains within which Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert is nestled. But, you must walk or drive around three kilometers (two miles) up the winding road before entering the village.
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is an offbeat travel and postcard location with something to offer solo travelers, couples, and families.
It’s a small place, impossible to get lost in – but in the end part of the magic is in feeling you are being transported to another time even though you’ve just arrived.
Hikers will find accessible trails ringing the area, as well as many artisan shops to wander in and out of. The Abbey, of course, is a must-see, and you will find a list of the most updated recommendations on the Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert tourist website.
Booking.comInterested in hiking in the South of France? Here are some great recommendations.
Research Notes
This article was largely informed by Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert : Les secrets d’un village classé aux Grands sites de France and GRAND SITE DE FRANCE® SAINT-GUILHEM-LE-DÉSERT. Thank you!
