Hiking the Cocora Valley (in Spanish, the “Valle de Cocora”) was an unforgettable part of the 10-day trip I took to Colombia with my brother, Carter, in 2018.
After spending several months volunteering, backpacking, and hiking around Peru, I came home to Illinois itching with the travel bug and promptly infected Carter.
After considering a couple of different countries, we settled on Colombia. I dove into travel blogs and articles about what to do in Colombia and eventually settled on an itinerary for us. (Can you tell I’m a firstborn?) We’d begin with a few days in Medellín, take a bus to a small town called Jardín, and end in Salento to do the Cocora Valley hike.
Cocora Valley isn’t very easy to get to, which was part of the lure
Once a country considered an off-the-beaten-track destination, Colombia has seen an explosion of international tourism in the past few years. Today, cities such as Bogota, Medellín, and Cartagena are popular digital nomad destinations and common launching-off points for tourists. While this is excellent for Colombia’s tourism economy, it’s also worth mentioning that the country has grappled with rising housing costs in its cities’ most popular neighborhoods.
More broadly, there is also the longstanding tension between wealthy foreigners who move to take advantage of a favorable currency conversion rate and the locals who may (rightfully) feel resentful towards the transplants.
To hike the Cocora Valley, your chief objective is to get to Salento
Frankly, Salento is a pain in the ass to get to. Finding a direct bus from Medellínto Salento isn’t a problem and it’s also not very expensive (in 2024, the trip costs around 70,0000 Colombian pesos (COP), or 17 USD. The problem is that busing through the mountains is slow going due to steep and winding roads. So, although the trip is listed as around 6.5 to 7 hours in length, in reality it takes more like nine hours.
You may also have to contend with motion sickness. I’ve been fortunate to only get hit with it once in my life, on a 19-hour overnight bus from Arequipa to Ica, Peru. But Carter has always had a more sensitive stomach and he had a rough time during that trip. Which was a shame, because the countryside views were stunning! So, have medication on hand if you think you’ll need it and, if you have time, I would recommend breaking up the trip with a stop in the tiny mountain town of Jardín.
Another consideration is the elevation change
Medellín sits at an elevation of 4905 ft (1495m). Salento has an average altitude of 6217 ft (1895 m), which is on the lower end of the altitude range the Cocora Valley hike traverses. At it’s highest point, the Cocora Valley hike will take you to 2400 m above sea level.
That all said, the effort to get to Salento and hike in Cocora Valley is worth it
Why? Quite simply, this one leg of our trip could have been the “adventure of a lifetime” in and of itself.
But, how do you actually get to this hike?
Every morning in the Salento main square, large Jeeps called “Willy’s” take hikers out to the valley. They run like clockwork starting at 6:00 or 7:00 AM, typically cost 5000 COP (1.50 USD), and take about half an hour to get to the starting point of the Cocora Valley Hike.
Depending on how adventurous you are, you can sit inside the Jeep and admire the scenery as you wind up and through the mountains, or you can hang onto the back for some fresh air and a truly otherworldly experience. (Guess which we did?)
The Willy drops you off in a parking lot just across the road from the start of the hike
When we went, there were two fees to pay, an entry fee and an exit fee of 3,000 COP each. So, accessing the park worked out to 6,000 COP, per person, for the entire hike. (That’s less than 2 USD per person.) However, my understanding is that if you try to book in advance (for example, through your hostel or with a guide), it will run you around 80,000 COP (roughly 20 USD) per person.
After paying the entry fee, you’ve got two choices
The hike is about 9 miles (15 km) and generally takes around six hours. (It takes far less if you don’t stop for lots of pictures but like… why wouldn’t you stop for photos?) The hike is a loop and can be started from either direction: The first takes you through a blue gate and the second starts with an easy walk up a dirt and gravel path. Each route is lovely in its own right. The only big difference is whether you want to see the wax palm trees that the valley is famous for at the beginning or at the end of the hike.
Personally, my brother and I are more “save the best for last” types of people, so we set off through the blue gate.
Coming from this direction, we passed through a relatively flat path between private properties for about a mile before entering the forest. Here, things got interesting, as there was a creek that occasionally swelled to a river, and lots of little bridges to cross that gave us little adrenaline jolts with each crossing. Upon reaching the mountain hiking section of the trail, we took a detour that my brother still bemoans to this day, but that I don’t think either of us truly regrets as it let us glimpse how truly vast and magical the Colombian Andes are.
In any case, those wishing to do the trail as is should stick to the main path
It’s very straightforward, save for one section that suggests a stop-off at Acaime Finca, where you can apparently birdwatch for around 5,000 COP (less than 2 USD) per person. If you have no interest in birdwatching, don’t follow this sign.
The hike is the most taxing in this section, as you climb up, up, up before finally emerging into the open air for a last switchback up to the Montaña lookout. (Sidenote: Apparently there is a day hike you can do up the Cerro Morrogacho. If you’ve done this, let me know in the comments if you’d recommend it!)
The plateau is a great natural resting point where you can enjoy the refreshments you packed for the hike. Around you are stunning views of Cerro Morrogacho and surrounding flora and fauna.
After this stop, it’s literally downhill from here
A wide dirt and gravel path flows down the mountain and sparse foliage allows for ever-increasing awesome views of the surrounding valley.
You’ll emerge into the valley, where the grass is soft and spongy beneath your feet and the Colombian wax palms wave serenely high above you. These iconic trees can reach heights of 196 feet and give the area a very Jurassic Park aura.
To complete the circuit and exit the park, follow the trail that slopes gently over the hills until you arrive at a consistent downhill. Turn left at the road and you’ll arrive back to where you started, and from the parking lot you can find a Willy to take you back to Salento.
Bear in mind that the last Willy leaves in the early evening, so be sure to ask before leaving what time you need to be back. The Cocora Valley is over eight miles outside of Salento and you won’t want to walk back in the dark after a full day of hiking!
Useful information on hiking the Cocora Valley in Colombia, and on Salento in general
- I would bring at least 100,000 COP (about 25 USD) per person for this hike. You’ll be paying for the ride to the valley, the entrance fee to the park (which varies depending on how you book), and then the ride back. Plus, it’s always good to have a little extra for any snacks or drinks you’d like after.
- Salento is generally very warm but does experience a rainy and dry season during the spring (April, May) and fall (September, October, November). It was July when my brother and I went; we had no issues with the rain.
- Try to always have cash on hand to pay and if not, be sure to ask before eating if a restaurant accepts payment by your type of credit card. If you’re coming from Medellin like us, I’d recommend withdrawing cash from a local ATM before leaving as it’s generally easier to do so from large cities. I also strongly recommend creating a Wise account prior to your trip, as you can easily convert and transfer money and the Wise debit card allows qualifying withdrawals for minimal-to-no fees.
- My brother and I weren’t on a schedule that allowed for lengthy add-ons, but if we had been we would have definitely looked into hang gliding, multi-day hikes, horseback riding in the mountains, and tours of coffee plantations.
Cocora Vally Hike FAQs
How difficult is the Cocora Valley hike?
The hike is generally considered moderately challenging due to the high altitude and steepness of the route at times. Take care to leave early and arrive with plenty of time to complete the hike, which usually takes between 4-6 hours depending on fitness level(s) and the number of stops you make for photos. No part of the hike feels dangerous, but it’s worth mentioning that I did it on an overcast day with no rain.
Can you do Cocora Valley by yourself?
If you are a fit hiker, I would say yes as someone who has done challenging hikes both solo and in groups. Take care to arrive early and don’t hesitate to link up with fellow Cocora Valley hikers. One of the great things about solo travel is the camaraderie shared with fellow travelers along the way; you can dip in and out of socializing as the need or desire arises.
What to wear in Cocora Valley?
It’s a good idea to bring a waterproof jacket and sturdy hiking shoes for the Cocora Valley hike. You don’t need excessive gear; if you’re prepared for rain, you’ll be fine.
